There is a lot to be said today when buying a suit. The off-the-rack, , , Lord & Taylors, , Jos A. Banks, or brands seems to be the pick of the litter for most men.
While Macy’s, Men’s wearhouse, Jos A. Banks andoffer garments of better quality, the reality is you get what you pay for. Most off-the-racks suits in the $200-$500 range are fully fused suits that are mass produced. I go as low as $200 because if you really want a suit for cheap I suggest you go to K&G or Burlington, these are the kings of really cheap suits and I mean cheap not just in price.
However I am knocking anyone, if you like K&G more power to you. However if you would like to start on obtaining suits that may be better quality or get a better return on your wearable investment, here is what you should know.
FULL CANVAS – Normally in these suits, a layer of horsehair canvas was placed beneath the fabric of a bespoke suit for support and to retain its shape. Gradually the suit contours to the natural shape of the wearer’s body so that the wearer achieves a perfect fit even after many uses. There are also other benefits but these suits normally are pass the $2000 range.
HALF CANVAS – Also used in bespoke suits and most tailors will go this route because it saves time in the overall process and in this canvas variation the canvas is provided in the chest and lapels of the jacket while the rest of the suit is fused or glued together, many top brands go this way and it still provides a good fitting suit that wll last a long time. I think Brooks Brothers is one of the few suit makers that used this process.
FUSED – Suits where the material (interlining) is fused with a tape or glue instead of being stitched. Mainly all mass-produced garments. The down-side is that the glue actually degrades, this is seen in bubbling or fabric ripples. Most commonly seen when these garments are sent to the cleaners to often. The cleaners actually rush the process and the degradation becomes very noticable over time. These suits normally do not fit your body shape and wear out over time.
If more detail information go to the following sources:
- Andy Gilchrist, offers an excellent explanation, the best one to date at www.askandyaboutclothes.
- There is this great YouTube Video: How It’s Made – Suits
- Check out this YouTube video: Tailoring, the Neapolitan Way
See you soon!