EDB Cravatta – The First of Many Bespoke Events in Connecticut and New York

Just this past weekend, the team at Papillon Cravatta, our spin-off Bespoke Event Company held their very first Bespoke Event for men. We wanted to keep it small, to select persons that appreciate bespoke clothing. We had a wonderful turnout and with close to 30 guests it was a success!

We wanted to thank Theophilus Cooper of Royce Redding and the owner Dan Oke for making sure that our patrons were cared for.

The event was held at the Bridgeport Innovation Center in Bridgeport, CT. An area were many local artists and musicians have their studios and work spaces. We love the urbanized vibe at the Made in Bridgeport Studio, owed by Robin Gilmore and Gerald Moore, who hosted our event and for the lovely vintage cufflink selection that Robin curated and put on display for our clients to purchase (A special thanks to them!).

We had a blast and our guests came from Bridgeport, Norwalk, Stratford, CT, New York City and as far as Atlanta, GA. We have many more events to come, but as we stress, our events are curated and sad to say everyone is not invited but if you would like to be considered for attendance, just send an email and we will put you on the e-mailing list.

EDB will also setup at various locations by request where men want to spend a little more but lack the access to Bespoke clothes.

We are also looking for corporate sponsors. EDB is redefining men’s fashion by bringing true Bespoke (not Made to Measure) men’s fashion events away from NYC and other big cities and having them held in areas where redevelopment is needed. Imagine custom suits made from fabrics curated from the best fabric houses in Italy and England in your backyard.

Bespoke suits take an average of 6 weeks and shirts an average of 5 weeks. Our prices are far better than what you will find in Mitchell’s of Westport or any other Bespoke clothing maker (Brooks Brothers, Paul Stuart, Paul Smith) and with similar or higher quality fabrics and linings that you choose yourself from our selection and of course you will be fitted by one of our professionals.

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Sincerely,

Eric Toro – Fashion editor of The Dicky Bow, and Principal at Papillon Cravatta

Mariano and Luca Rubinacci at the Museum at FIT

On Wednesday (March 26, 2014), I had the privilege of listening to the conversation that G. Bruce Boyer had with Mariano and Luca Rubinacci at the Katie Murphy Amphitheatre, in the Fred P. Pomerantz Art & Design Center, at FIT. The discussion centered around Neapolitan tailoring and its influence in the world of fashion. It was a treat for me to hear the discussion since the Rubinacci family is well known for their bespoke tailoring empire. They did mention that they had over 40 tailors but they handle the decisions in regards to the customer. The conversation was enjoyable and entertaining with both Mariano and Luca giving insight into the Neapolitan way of tailoring, as they mention its just not the clothes but its really a way of life.

 

Rubinacci1

Panel Discussion

 

Romano Ridolfi – A True Story

Well, we are back reporting on some of our favorite designers. Romano Ridolfi revealed the third season of his latest collection called RR at the last Pitti Immagine Uomo.

This year Romano Ridolfi is focused on pants, which from what we understand range in fabrics and wear; from every day going about your business pants to the more classic formal pants for going out on the town.

As we reviewed the images that we received, it seems that he has a good selection of fabrics but we were impressed with the style that he is focused on, what we call clothes for the well-worn traveler.

We also like the fact that his clothes capture a bit of Americana, from his pants to his jackets, the clothes breathe the essence of being out in the west and just traveling through the country exploring its many sights and listening to its many sounds. We love his use or fabrics from the denim shirts, rugged jackets, wool ties and cotton slacks in various flavors.

The website tells the story of writers, musicians, and dreamers in search of inspiration and we can definitely say that this collection was inspired from a time of dreamers when young people were exploring the sights and sounds around them. We enjoyed the images that were supplied us and we like the fact that his clothes will inspire a whole new generation of writers, musicians, and dreamers, rock on Romano!

Check out the pics below and for more information, head to yoox.com

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2014 at The Dicky Bow

Hello, it has been a rough year for us here. We have been working keeping the business going and updating systems as well as making investments in our location. We apologize for not keeping up with content, but we hope to make it up to you. We have some nice things going and we are working on opening a place where local men can buy the things they need for their wardrobe.

We will also include photos from designers putting out new collections as well as sponsoring local trunk shows. Stay tuned for our Cufflink and Tie Clip Show and we are working on combining our show with an upcoming vintage show. If you have any questions or would like to learn more about what we are doing, email me at etoro@thedickybow.com. In the meantime take care and stay tuned for our upcoming posts on men’s fashion.

Sincerely,

Eric Toro

 

Eric - Our Office
Eric – The Dicky Bow/EDB Cravatta Offices

The Dicky Bow, cause for reflection and a different look at “bespoke” Tailoring

reflection

While reading your blog, I began to reflect on my view of fashion, clothes and who shaped my thinking. I began to care about my clothes and fashion because of my grandmother. She used to work for wealthy people who would give her their old clothes. Old to them but for my grandmother, they provided an opportunity to create her own “designer” pieces. She would remove collars and attach them to an old coat or take other clothes that she was given and reconstruct them to create her own “bespoke” pieces. My grandmother was a seamstress and she would create costumes for my dad to wear when he performed on stage. This meant that the fabric or parts from the hand-me-down clothes could end up on my dad’s custom outfit.

My grandma was also a stylish lady. She did not have much, but she took pride in how she looked. This was her pattern regardless of where she as going, she never left the house unless she was “together”, as they say. The trickle down of my grandmother’s sense of style and seamstress skill was, my dad began to sew. He too never leaves the house unless he is well dressed, and this despite not beginning a wealthy person. He goes to thrift shops and the Goodwill in wealthy neighborhoods. Like his mom, he will reconstruct a rich man’s used expensive suit, sometimes shirt, and then adds a tie with a fancy note or a bow tie. He can mix and match colors that rival those seen in men’s fashion magazines.

Though I am not a man, my grandmother and my father have instilled in me the love of women’s and men’s fashion. Watching them has helped me to create my own sense of style. I too am a seamstress and like to create “bespoke” items of my own. These thoughts bring to mind what I see today with the current generation’s thoughts on men’s style. I wonder are they aware of how what you wear speaks to who you are. For my grandmother and my dad, what you wear speaks to your dignity, how you walk, and who pays attention. Depending on what you are doing or where you are going, your treatment by others can be affected before you open your mouth.

Most, including myself, cannot afford a custom-made suit or outfit, but, “bespoke” does not always have to mean that lots of money are spent. I wonder how the young boys, teenagers, and young men today determine their style. I spoke to a young man in high school and he told me that most his age look at celebrates and sports personalities to determine their style. How unfortunate, I wonder what would happen if you could show some of these young boys how to develop a style of their own, what would the clothing industry look like and what would be the style today.

By contributing writer,

Donna Preston

The other day, what to wear?

Hello,

Sorry about the slow posts but I do have a day job. I wanted to hang out with a few of my friends but could not decide on what to wear, to grab a bite to eat at a little bistro in CT.

Below are the combos I came up with but I wasted so much time that I ran late to the meal.

Tell me what you think? The silk purple and my other choice a greenish plaid tie had to match a dark blue plaid two buttons bespoke blazer with a light blue shirt with white collar and french cuffs. The shoes were brown brogues, but I will hold out on the name of the shoes. I do not want you to buy the same pair.

I also paired a grey glen plaid suit with a purple gingham shirt with a lighter color bow in the purple family. Just to let you know, if you invite me to dinner, I am always late, the reason I always try on several combinations before I feel comfortable.

Send me a comment on the combinations!

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I forget I spent some time picking out shirts as well:

shirts

So tell me what you think of the combinations that I tried to put together and give me your input.

Thanks,

Eric,

Editor of The Dicky Bow

 

I thought that this article would interest my readers.

Sometimes you come across a great article, I like reading fashion media across all the wide spectrum, from the tabloids to the specialty magazines. This article is from the Wall Street Journal and it’s about bespoke clothing from Japan. Enjoy reading it and I included the link as well if you want to read it from the Wall Street Journal.

 

Bespoke Italian Tailoring From Japan

Next Generation of Italian-Style Tailors Hails From the Other Side of World

Photography by Yoko TakahashiSUITING UP | Jackets in the process of being hand-tailored hang in Ciccio’s Tokyo studio. Each typically requires three fittings and starts at $4,500.

AS I ENTER THE SECOND FLOOR suit-making shop, the studio’s master tailor—a man called Ciccio, wearing a soft-shouldered, subtly pinstriped gray suit—greets me with a smile and a casual “buon giorno.” After asking if I’d like an espresso, he leads me to a leather couch where I am left to browse dozens of swatches of the finest English and Italian fabrics. Every detail here leads me to believe that I’m sitting in a traditional suit-maker’s atelier in Naples—except that I entered the shop from a busy Tokyo street, and the real name of the master cutter standing before me is Noriyuki Ueki. As a tailor, he goes by the nickname he earned in Italy. His work—crafting Neapolitan-style suits in Tokyo and elsewhere in Asia—is so highly regarded by Japan’s fashion elite that he’s able to charge as much or more than the top Neapolitan tailors who regularly visit Tokyo (more than $4,500 for just a sports jacket).

Photography by Yoko TakahashiTHE ITALIAN JOB | Hand-stitching is the hallmark of Neapolitan tailoring.

Photography by Yoko TakahashiAll patterns are cut by hand.

Photography by Yoko TakahashiIroning a canvas jacket lining

Photography by Yoko TakahashiNoriyuki Ueki, aka Ciccio, wearing one of his own suits

There are a handful of young Japanese like Ciccio, all under 40, who have aggressively pursued their passion for fine tailoring to the point of apprenticing thousands of miles away at sartorias in Naples, sometimes for years, before returning to Japan to craft handmade suits in that southern Italian city’s signature style. Meanwhile, there’s an acute shortage of young Neapolitans willing to take up their city’s labor-intensive approach to suit-making. Almost none possess the skills or the confidence to branch out on their own, as Ciccio has done, leading to the strange possibility that, in a decade or two, the finest Neapolitan suits will be found only in Japan.

It’s no surprise that traditional suit-making has such a strong presence in Japan. The country remains attached to an almost Mad Men–esque vision of workday attire for men, with glossy magazines devoted entirely to men’s suits—most notably a publication calledMen’s Ex that, in a typical issue, covers everything from shoe-polishing techniques to pairing shirt and tie colors. Back issues of Men’s Ex provide the most extensive guide to Naples’s lesser-known artisan tailors, surpassing anything available in English—or even in Italian. A year ago, while on a trip to Italy, I often encountered Japanese travelers at hole-in-the-wall sartorial operations on remote backstreets of Naples, including some places I’d learned about only from locals in the neighborhood.

What I also discovered on that trip was that most master cutters and tailors in Naples began learning their trade at or before the age of 10—during an era of post-war Italian poverty when child labor was the norm—which means that the top tailors there are, at the youngest, in their sixties. Many more, though, are in their seventies or eighties and long retired. Most wonder openly whether a tailor who starts learning this craft at the age of 18 or 20 can ever attain the technique necessary to become a true master cutter.

As I sip my espresso and admire Ciccio’s handmade suits, he tells me his story: He spent four years in his early twenties working at an Osakan brand called Ring Jacket, which specializes in a neo-Neapolitan style similar to the Italian brand Boglioli, and soon acquired his first Neapolitan suit, an Attolini. Founded in 1930, Attolini almost single-handedly created the modern Neapolitan style. Virtually every tailor in Naples has—or at least claims—some direct or indirect Attolini pedigree. Founder Vincenzo Attolini’s central discovery was that you could eliminate or reduce most of the thick material used to line men’s jackets and offer a natural shoulder with little or no padding and a collar that’s flexible and casually elegant rather than stiff or stuffy. For Ciccio, his first Attolini was a revelation: It was soft, light and comfortable to wear. He desperately wanted to know how to make a garment with such qualities himself. So Ciccio would come to the Ring Jacket workshop alone on weekends to refine his own jacket-making technique, something he couldn’t do during normal business hours. “My dream all along,” he tells me, “was to go to Naples and learn from the people who invented this style.”

When Ciccio finally managed to move to Italy at age 25, the culture shock was extreme: “The streets were crowded with cars and people,” he says. “It was chaos. But it was also more free and flexible than Japan. Here all things have to be done the one correct way; in Italy each tailor has an original distinctive style.” He went to work for a Neapolitan tailor and, eventually, was allowed to work on everything but the collars and sleeves, which require the most dexterous handwork. He wasn’t only learning Italian techniques—he was also absorbing the Italian perspective on style: “Japanese people look more closely than anyone else. We master the small things,” he says. “But Italians look from afar. Their style is rougher. The whole is cool and it’s beautiful, even if they don’t pay attention to every small detail.”

Wanting to master the cutting of the collar and the sleeve before returning home, he spent two more years apprenticed to another tailor in Naples, Antonio Pascariello, where he acquired more experience—and his Italian nickname. “I couldn’t remember his Japanese name, so I called him Ciccio,” explains Pascariello. “These young Japanese have a grand passion for tailoring, and they work very hard at it. For Neapolitans you either start when you’re a child, or it’s very difficult to become a tailor.”

When he returned to Japan, Ciccio founded his own atelier in the fashionable shopping area of Aoyama. Six years later, he now employs two full-time workers, each of whom dreams of following in his footsteps by making a journey to Naples to apprentice there. Ciccio’s business has expanded across Asia, and he now travels to Seoul to meet Korean clients.

At 35, Ciccio is the most well-known of the young Naples-trained tailors in Japan, but there are others in Tokyo and across the country: Yusiche Ono, 37, went to Naples as an apprentice a year after Ciccio; Noriyuki Higashi, a 34-year-old who makes suits in Osaka under the Sarto Domenica brand, is so fascinated by Neapolitan suit-making that after returning home from a stint in Naples and taking a day job, he spends nights and weekends making jackets. Unlike every other Neapolitan-style tailor I know of in Japan or Italy, Higashi also does everything by hand and nothing with a sewing machine.

I meet Ciccio and Ono at a pizzeria called Seirinkan in Tokyo’s Nakameguro neighborhood to discuss the future of Neapolitan style in Japan. (The owner went to Naples to study pizza-making, and now makes pies as good, perhaps even better, than any of the pizzerias I’ve eaten at in Naples.) Ciccio, who’s wearing a brown suit he made himself and a white cotton scarf wrapped around his neck, says that he needs to get back to Naples every couple of years in order to recapture that city’s distinctive way of seeing. “Technically, I’m much better than I ever was,” he says. “But the danger is that here in Japan you get so focused on the small things that you lose that bigger perspective that Italians have.”

Ono nods, folding over a slice of his pizza. “Some-times, back here, I feel that my eyes are getting rotten,” he says. “That I’m losing the ability to see what looks right and what looks wrong. That’s something I never felt in Naples.” Ciccio and Ono are both trying to explain something that’s difficult to hold on to a world away from its origins: the Neapolitan sense of effortless, instinctive and uncultivated style. Their dedication has allowed them to master physical techniques. Now, as they mature, the question is whether they can also cultivate what Ciccio identified as the beauty of authentic Neapolitan tailoring: a style all their own.

Actual link to article

I love this article from Gentleman’s Gazette

Hello,

I like reading other blogs and there are some outstanding ones out there. One of the best I come across is that of the Gentleman’s Gazette. Some would say why would you write about someone else? The reality is that the Gentleman’s Gazette is great, I read their posts all the time. At times we both do product reviews and I respect the fact that he has a wealth of information on men’s gear that he pushes and shares down the fashion pipeline. I enjoy the way he dispenses his information on men’s clothes. His articles are great, his images are superb and what Sven Raphael Schneider has done is fabulous I hope he keeps it coming!

I like focusing on the maintenance of your clothes and the nature of being a dresser but Mr. Schneider does an excellent job on the functions of clothing, historical views, fashion trends, individual icons of style and the like and I like the images he posts on his blog, great detail. I like fashion and I like reading the Gentleman’s Gazette, in fact, I do not read Esquire and some of the other blogs as much since I think they get to sidetracked and also tend to be slanted towards the trendy and unwearable stuff designed for those with a 14 waist.

So that’s all I know you will like Gentleman’s Gazette, so I posted a link to one his recent posts. Great Stuff does not go unnoticed!

Gentleman’s Gazette, post on Vintage clothes and Interior Design,

awesome! Enjoy!

Sean-Crowley
Article and image from Gentleman’s Gazette

Sincerely,

Eric

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